How To Restore Your Car Paint - Finishing Bodywork
If you are performing, auto body finishing your work area has to be almost sterile unless of course you enjoy having to strip, sand, repaint and buff repeatedly on the same car because something got into the paint or finish or you left some residue and went onto the next step. If there is anything present that could ruin your finishing work then it probably will.
One of the most valuable assets you can have is a quality wax and grease remover. Most often the to the job at home guy ends up with an inferior finish if all due to not removing the residue of anything from the car like old wax and dirt build up or airborne debris.
There are solvents that can be used but you are taking a chance when you use these. Many novice auto body finishers are devastated when the mistakes made before the primer application start to appear. The key to being successful is to know the right materials for the job. Then it?s knowing how to use them. Finally when and where should they used.
What You will Need -There are lots of products that will remove grease and wax but you need to remove silicone. -You will need about 3 gallons - Solvent and lint free rags actually cheesecloth or tough quality paper towels are the best -detail scrubbing brush to get at hard to get spots where there may be silicone
Do Not Use -regular lacquer thinner (can create havoc with paint systems) -enamel reduced (same reason) -cheap rags (Note: if you really have to use lacquer thinner work quick and don?t let it soak into the prime coat too much or too long)
Degreasing Times: It certainly is not a one-time operation. At least not when you consider that if you were to even leave one print smudge on the car it will likely show up as discoloration in the finish. It is imperative that you remove any and all of grease, wax and silicone? -prior to touchups -prior to the bare metal conversion coating -prior to filling and glazing -prior to primers -prior to basecoat -prior to finishing coats
The Right Spots to Degrease: The areas that you are going to be working on such as the body and panel.
Do not miss around all these areas? Trim, weather stripping, cowel louver, panel joints and air intakes Inside the head and taillight apertures, only necessary if you have removed the trim or bezels. Also around the door areas, inside of hood and the lid of the trunk and the wheels
Be absolutely sure that you remove all the cleaner and then wipe with a clean rag. If in doubt do it again.
Reasons for Degreasing -To know you are going to get the best results - its yours and the business reputation at stake -the cost of the materials such as primer surfacer, primer, metallic, clear coats -labor of yours and what you pay in wages - 21392
One of the most valuable assets you can have is a quality wax and grease remover. Most often the to the job at home guy ends up with an inferior finish if all due to not removing the residue of anything from the car like old wax and dirt build up or airborne debris.
There are solvents that can be used but you are taking a chance when you use these. Many novice auto body finishers are devastated when the mistakes made before the primer application start to appear. The key to being successful is to know the right materials for the job. Then it?s knowing how to use them. Finally when and where should they used.
What You will Need -There are lots of products that will remove grease and wax but you need to remove silicone. -You will need about 3 gallons - Solvent and lint free rags actually cheesecloth or tough quality paper towels are the best -detail scrubbing brush to get at hard to get spots where there may be silicone
Do Not Use -regular lacquer thinner (can create havoc with paint systems) -enamel reduced (same reason) -cheap rags (Note: if you really have to use lacquer thinner work quick and don?t let it soak into the prime coat too much or too long)
Degreasing Times: It certainly is not a one-time operation. At least not when you consider that if you were to even leave one print smudge on the car it will likely show up as discoloration in the finish. It is imperative that you remove any and all of grease, wax and silicone? -prior to touchups -prior to the bare metal conversion coating -prior to filling and glazing -prior to primers -prior to basecoat -prior to finishing coats
The Right Spots to Degrease: The areas that you are going to be working on such as the body and panel.
Do not miss around all these areas? Trim, weather stripping, cowel louver, panel joints and air intakes Inside the head and taillight apertures, only necessary if you have removed the trim or bezels. Also around the door areas, inside of hood and the lid of the trunk and the wheels
Be absolutely sure that you remove all the cleaner and then wipe with a clean rag. If in doubt do it again.
Reasons for Degreasing -To know you are going to get the best results - its yours and the business reputation at stake -the cost of the materials such as primer surfacer, primer, metallic, clear coats -labor of yours and what you pay in wages - 21392
About the Author:
Now you can spray paint your car in 2 hours easily with Spray Paint Secrets. These car spray paint techniques are previously only revealed in expensive workshop course.
posted by X - Men @ 3:14 AM
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